Slow poisoning

Cancer, malnutrition, and even allergies don't develop overnight. Sometimes they take years. The junk food we stuffed into our bodies when we were young and foolish didn't seem to harm us then...but we were planting seeds for diseases that may yet sprout in our bodies as we age and as our natural defenses weaken.

Our dogs frequently suffer the same fate. We feed them popular but poor-quality foods recommended by misinformed vets or by New York advertising geniuses. Our dogs may not show the results of an unhealthy diet right away. It may take a few years before they develop allergies, or before a malignant tumor starts to grow. You might assume that the dog was healthy "until he suddenly wasn't." The truth is, he was never healthy because the food you gave him was a slow and gradual poisoning.

The most common, popular, and advertised brands of commercial pet foods today are made with vile ingredients.  The term "pet food" is used by the Food and Drug Administration to describe a category of  consumables that are not fit for human consumption.  The pet food industry was developed as a means of utilizing moldy grains, rancid animal fats, and diseased animals that did not pass inspection for human consumption.  Throw in some chicken heads and feathers, the blood, guts and sawdust that have been swept up from the rendering plant floor.   Put it all in a pot, cook it under pressure, and extrude some pellets and voila...you have "dog food."   Color it with red dye 40, yellow 6, and blue 2.  Add salt.  Add rancid restaurant grease.  Add pesticide-type preservatives to make sure it can sit on a shelf for a year or so without developing bugs.

We're not talking the Dark Ages of the industry.  We're talking about today's commercial pet foods that go by such names as Purina, Iams, Science Diet, Atta Boy, Ole Roy, Nutro, and a lot of those other lesser known brands that purport to be of high quality but cost less than $32 for a 20-pound bag.

Yes, it's an unfortunate fact of life: if you're paying less than  $30 for 20 pounds of dog kibble, you're probably not getting the quality your dog needs to live a long and disease-free life.  Never mind the cute packaging and million-dollar advertising campaigns.  You're too smart to fall for those ploys, aren't you?

The pet food industry, in general, has done our dogs no favors.  It has increased the incidence of cancer with its chemicals, increased allergies with its unhealthy grains and carbohydrates, and contributed to development of numerous diseases, from ulcers to bladder stones to kidney failure.  Our dogs, who are meat eaters, are slowly starving on diets comparable to Fritos.  It starts when they're puppies and sometimes won't manifest itself as a health problem until they're mature adults.

Whatever your dog's health problem may be--whether it's itching, excessive shedding, body odor, bad breath, bladder problems, sensitive stomach, mental problems, or even early stages of cancer--the FIRST thing you should do is UPGRADE HIS DIET.  That may be all he needs!  If not, the better diet will help any other veterinary treatment  be more effective.

AVOID dog foods you can purchase in the grocery store.  AVOID MOST foods found in feed stores.  There are a select few who carry high-end, holistic foods.  Use price as your guideline.  If it's under $30 for 20 pounds, it's probably not what you want.

FIND good foods through internet research.  You'll have to order most of them from independent distributors, or locate them at upscale pet stores in larger cities.  Most of these foods can be ordered and delivered to you.  The one I sell, Flint River Ranch, is like that.  The reasonable shipping charges are built into the price.  You pay nothing extra for shipping and delivery.

THE BEST FOOD OF ALL is a raw diet of "real food."  Click on BARF Diet (Bones and Raw Food) to find out more.

THE NEXT BEST FOOD is human food that you cook for your dog.  Chicken, ground beef, oatmeal, vegetables, berries, yogurt, eggs...check with your vet for recipes you can prepare at home and freeze for convenience in zip-lock bags.

THE THIRD BEST DIET is the one I choose because I'm lazy and like the convenience of feeding a kibble.  I won't allow "common" pet food to pass my dog's lips, but I do feed her Flint River Ranch kibble.  If I didn't feed that, I'd probably choose Innova, Artemis, Blue Buffalo, California Natural, or something of similar ilk and price.  I'd have to drive to the Big City to find them, and I'd pay more than I do now for the Flint River that comes to my door.  But I'd do it if I had to.

Here's what to look for when you're switching foods:

• YES to FDA human-grade
• YES to baked, not steam-extruded
• YES to specific meat in the first three ingredients
• YES to easy availability
• YES to good taste!
  
• NO to corn
• NO to any animal by-products
• NO to non-specific "meat"
• NO to artificial colorings or flavor
• NO to chemical preservatives
• NO to fillers like peanut hulls and wheat mill run

Please...if you don't know the name of the food you're giving your dogs...or if you're not sure it meets the above criteria...change them to a better diet.  Today.  A few years from now, you'll be so happy you did!

For a graphic explanation of what the FDA allows into "pet food", click here: http://www.truthaboutpetfood.com/articles/486/1/A-Graphic-Description-of-what-the-FDA-allows-in-Pet-Food/Page1.htmlhttp://www.truthaboutpetfood.com/articles/486/1/A-Graphic-Description-of-what-the-FDA-allows-in-Pet-Food/Page1.html

In Memory of Audrey

Audrey Ulrich, one of our former advanced dog-training family members at Manning Dog Training in Yakima, died Sunday, Oct. 25, of injuries sustained in a one-car rollover on Interstate 82 around Wapato.

Also killed in the wreck was Audrey's two-year-old son, Rafael. The family dog, Lula, a pointer mix, also died when hit by another car just after the accident.

Surviving the crash were Audrey's husband Matthew, their infant son, and Matthew's mother.

No one is yet sure what caused the rollover, but it's speculated that Audrey, who was driving, got sleepy and overcorrected when she hit the median. They were returning from Seattle, and on their way home to Richland.

Audrey first started training with our group in Yakima back around 2003. She had an exceptional Viszla named Calvin, with whom she had done remarkable training before she ever stepped through our doors. All of us in the group at that time--Betty Pace, Amy Kolzow, Ken and Joe Donahoo, to name just a few--were in awe of her abilities to work Calvin. Later that summer at the Wenatchee dog show, Audrey earned a CD (Companion Dog obedience title) on Calvin. Also earning CDs that day were Ken Donahoo and Amy Kolzow. The three Manning students took first, second and third! It was a proud and memorable day for everyone, and particularly for their trainer.

We all learned a lot from Audrey. She was a role model as a dog handler and owner. She went to extreme lengths to help Calvin overcome some horrible allergies. I remember I asked what he was eating, and she said very matter-of-factly, "Duck and potato. That's all he can eat."

Matthew, her husband, would often accompany her to class but would keep his face buried in a book most of the time. He was extremely supportive of her training. As a hunter, he truly valued his dogs and the work she did with them.

Audrey and Matt owned a grooming salon--"The Barking Lot"-- in Richland. As can happen with small business ownership, their work time became increasingly demanding and they eventually stopped making the 80-mile (one way) trip to dog classes in Yakima every Monday night. I lost touch with her...until this past Sunday.

When I Googled her name, I caught up with some of what she'd been doing for the past eight years. Besides having had two children, she was also a major advocate for a Tri-Cities Dog Park...an effort that she helped organize and one that will surely become her legacy. You can read about it here:
http://www.tricitydogparks.org/

You'll also find, at this same site, ways you can donate to her cause and ways you can assist the family with medical expenses. Matthew is spending several days in the hospital, and the medical bills are sure to be catastrophic.

If you knew Audrey and Matt "back then" or even recently, please send Matt your condolences and prayers. Let him know that YOU know how many lives Audrey touched with her work and dedication.
The address:

The Family of Audrey Ulrich
1209 Thayer Drive
Richland, WA 99354

Jan,

I’ve noticed my 3 year old Yorkie has tarter build up but it’s a fight to brush his teeth. He only eats Flint River dry dog food and has Milkbone dry biscuits as treats. Is there a spray or gel that you would recommend to remove tarter buildup?

--Debi

Debi, 

Little dogs genetically have more problems with tooth decay and tartar.

I do believe the C.E.T. oral hygiene chews are wonderful for keeping teeth clean. You can get them at any vet's office...I used to sell them at MDT in Yakima for a lot less; check with the current owner to see if she still carries them. 

Plan on having his teeth scaled at the dentist once a year. There's no substitute for a professional job if your dog has a natural plaque and tarter buildup.

Also, there are a variety of tooth-cleaning products and methods on the market.  Check Drs. Foster & Smith.   If he won't tolerate a toothbrush, maybe he'd tolerate a wipe or a dental sponge.  Most of the oral hygiene sprays won't do much to affect tarter.  Have you tried using a very small brush and just getting the front teeth done? You will have to hold his whole head in your right hand (head, not neck) firmly (without hurting of course), and use your right index finger to slip the right corner of his top lip up. With the left hand, work the brush up into that area. That's where you would start. If you do just a little, that's better than none at all. He should build up a tolerance to it.   

If you're not even that far along with him, put a dab of doggy toothpaste on your finger and gently massage his gums (you'll still have to restrain him, at least initially).  Most dogs love the beef, poultry, or peanut butter-flavored toothpaste.  

If he likes to toothpaste, you can also squeeze some of it into a small Kong, hollow bone, or other toy that holds treats.  As he works on the toy, he'll at least be getting the enzymatic toothpaste into his mouth.

--Jan

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"Don't Eat My Finger!"

Hi Jan,

We're careful with amounts of treats, but it's the best button to push when training our two-year-old Doberman, whom we adopted from the Humane Society about six months ago. He cannot seem to GENTLY take a treat from our hands. We've turned hand over, waited for less excitement, etc.  He still lunges and could take a finger off! 

Any advice?

--Peggy

Dear Peggy,

This is a common problem, and it's very fixable.  First let's look at how the problems sometimes develop.

1.  Some folks like to throw treats (like popcorn) to their dogs and have the dogs catch them.  It's cute, but this teaches the dog a "snapping-turtle" response when he sees treats coming toward him from you.  When you hold the treat in your hand, he's still ready to snap...and thus, he gets your hand too, even though he didn't mean to do it.  The long-term solution for this:  DO NOT THROW FOOD FOR YOUR DOG TO CATCH.  Ever!

2.  The other reason dogs "snap" at treats in the hand is because we make it difficult for them to get the treat any other way...and then snapping becomes a habit.  Try this and you'll understand your dog's behavior:   

Hold a piece of popcorn or a small food tidbit above your own head, so that you have to tilt your head up and back to see it.  Your mouth is watering!  You're ready for that tidbit to land in your pie hole!  You don't want to miss. Your own inclination will be to catch it, and you'll probably even lunge slightly upward to get it when you THINK it's about to drop.

Now  hold another tidbit LOW, at your MOUTH level.  You can reach for it now without having to "catch" it.  You can easily nibble it out of your fingers.  

When you feed your dog treats from your hand, hold the treat LOW--at your dog's mouth level or below, so the dog has to actually lower his head to eat it.  This is a more natural, relaxed way for your dog to eat anything, and he'll be less likely to take the food too aggressively.

You'll also have to develop an "offense" to actually teach the dog some manners and self control.  Hold the dog cookie tightly between your thumb and the second joint of your index finger.  Part of the cookie should be extending out--just enough for the dog to nibble but not pull away from you.  Hold your hand LOW, as discussed above.  If your dog comes at you with open mouth and teeth, bump into his mouth with your treat-holding fingers and growl something like "AAGH!"  Don't worry, your dog's mouth won't hurt your fingers, and you won't hurt your dog.  But you'll surprise him in DOG LANGUAGE that says, "Hey, go easy if you want this!  I'm the leader here, I need your respect, and you must exercise care and self control when dealing with me."  Your dog will back up slightly, and then try again to get the treat (keep your hand in the dispensing position).  He'll approach more cautiously the second time.  If he still tries to gnaw your knuckles as well as the treat, punch into him again and utter another negative growl.  You are demonstrating, IN DOG LANGUAGE, his boundaries.   Once he becomes very cautious about approaching to take the treat, lighten up a bit and tell him "Gently," or "Nicely."  If he crosses the line and inflicts any pain on your fingers while he's gnawing the treat, let him know with an "Ouch!"  He'll get the message and begin to develop a bite inhibition, just as he would if he were interacting with other dogs.  Make him really work--nibbling--to get the cookie.  He'll learn to keep his mouth almost closed and take the treat gently between his barely parted incisors.

Follow up with CONSISTENCY.  Feed him treats the same way each time; make him work for them, and demand that he take them gently.  To get lots of practice, try feeding him his entire bowl of kibble this way.  Prepare to get a little slimy and slobbery.  Of course, make sure that no one else is incorrectly feeding him treats and sabotaging your efforts.

If you have also taught your dog the meaning of "Leave it!", you can incorporate this command into the exercise.  If he comes on too strong, use the command to get him to back off and slow down.  A calm, "Okay" from you will let him know to try again....more carefully.

I'd caution you against using treats to get him to consistently obey commands.  That's bribery, which means your dog has developed an attitude of "I'll only do it if...." and knows how to manipulate you. This causes a whole additional set of "issues."   There's a far better way for teaching plain old manners.  It's with leadership.  Save the treats for trick behaviors or daily rituals.

Achy joints? Try this!

Your dog has stiffness when he first rises in the morning.  Or your dog is predisposed to some sort of joint problem, especially in the hips.  Or your dog injured a joint, and you want to prevent further deterioration and inflammation.

Your vet may prescribe some sort of NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory).  This is like aspirin or ibuprofen for humans.  While doggy NSAIDS like Rimadyl and Deramaxx are wonder drugs, they are also harmful--and sometimes even fatal--when used over an extended period of time.

There is a safer and more affordable alternative.  It's called "Joint Rescue."

This is one I've been using with my dogs for about six years, with tremendous results.  It was recommended to me by one of my Yakima dog-training clients way back when.  She swore by it, so I tried it with my own aging dogs and had wonderful results.  I started carrying it in my store and sold so much I couldn't keep it in stock.  It's that good, and that effective.

A bottle of  90 "Joint Rescue" tablets costs about $30.  That's about 1/3 the cost of Rimadyl.  "Joint Rescue" is made from all natural ingredients.  The anti-inflammatories are herbal: yucca plant, botswelin and curcumin.  They get rid of the inflammation that causes joint pain and stiffness, and they do it without harming your dog. The relief is fairly quick.  If you keep a steady supply in your dog's system, you may help him forego inflammation altogether.  He'll have less trouble getting up, he'll be able to negotiate steps, and he'll have more energy for walks.

The other ingredients in "Joint Rescue" are glucosamine and chondroitin, which rebuild joint cartilage over a period of time.  So your dog gets the IMMEDIATE pain relief from the herbal anti-inflammatories, plus the long-range benefits of the joint supplements.

The tablets have a cheesy/garlicky taste, so dogs love them.

There are other similar products in the market, but most of them lack the herbal anti-inflammatories that quickly knock out the discomfort.  Glucosamine is great, but as a fan of Excedrin to get me up and going in the morning, I certainly appreciate the immediacy of good anti-inflammatories.  So will your dog.

You can order "Joint Rescue" from various dog health sites, or simply go to the manufacturer: Ark Naturals.  You might even find some other holistic, all-nature products you like at the same site.

I swear by this stuff.  It's cheaper, safer, and almost as effective as the powerful Rx drugs.  Give it a try if your dog has any stiffness or joint pain.

Consistency: Is it humanly possible?

So your dog isn't housebroken yet?  You probably think you have a stubborn dog, maybe even spiteful.  Or stupid.  You've "tried everything," and you still can't stop the accidents (which aren't really accidents, by the way).

Sometimes "trying everything" is the root of the problem.  You need to try just one thing, and be CONSISTENT with it.

Any dog-training manual worth its weight in paper will tell you about the importance of patience and consistency.  But what is consistency when it comes to dog-training?  It means doing the same thing the same way 100 percent of the time.  Not 60 percent or 75 percent, but 100 percent.

My elderly friend Maurice is having housebreaking issues with his new rescue, Nellie.  He thinks he's being consistent in feeding her on a schedule and taking her our for regular potty breaks.  But every so often, Maurice will lie down to take a long nap and miss Nellie's cue.  Or he'll leave her home alone  for a couple hours without putting her in her crate.  Or his daughter will watch Nellie while Maurice runs errands, and she'll miss Nellie's signal.  All of these are inconsistencies--holes--in Nellie's training regimen.  Because dogs think much differently than humans, and because they live in the "here and now," they interpret these inconsistencies to mean there are no rules to follow.  Dogs don't understand exceptions.  They only understand that, if the rule was not enforced the last time, there is no rule.  Period.

That puts a tremendous burden on us humans, who are about as inconsistent as any living being on the planet.  So should we give up?  Heck, no.  We must continue striving every day, while accepting the fact that if our dogs aren't "perfect," it's our fault and not theirs.

Dogs make us better humans by requiring excellence of us!  Can you be 100 percent consistent tomorrow in the way you interact with your dog?  Probably not!  But you can keep trying daily to improve your percentage.  As you do this, you'll notice something remarkable happening to you.  Your self confidence will grow.  You'll find yourself exercising more patience in all facets of your life.  You'll become more grounded in your convictions--more able to uphold  boundaries, rules and limitations for yourself as well as your dog.  You'll become more self disciplined and leaderlike.

Next time your dog does something "wrong," look first at the inconsistencies in your own actions.  By improving ourselves--becoming more consistent, more reliable and thus more trustworthy--we can improve our dogs' behaviors and our lives together with them.

Crippling with kindness

Lizzie is enjoying--or suffering from--"youngest child" syndrome.  Life's a lot easier for her than it was for our previous dogs who had to work for a living, trying to set good examples for all the other dogs in Central Washington.

More than a couple people have commented to Lizzie lately, "Say, girl, you're gettin' a tad porky."  Ouch!  Words to make any mother cringe!  I got her on the scale and discovered she'd gained about 5 pounds over the summer.  Not good, considering she has some hip concerns that will start haunting her in a few years.

How did it happen that my dog started gaining weight?  Too many treats, too many indulgences.  Too much pan-licking and pre-washing of dishes.  (Yes, those calories DO count!)

I'm pretty anal about my dogs' and horses' weight, and my own for that matter.  After four hip replacements, I know the toll that 20 extra pounds can take on a body's joints, even healthy ones.  Plus, keeping relatively trim will increase the quality of life for all of us (dogs, horses and people), allowing us to enjoy more activities for longer.

Is your dog overweight?  Never mind if you are.  At least do something about your dog.  Five extra pounds on a medium-size dog can shorten your dog's life span and cause aches and pains that he can't even tell you about.  Doling out excessive treats and overfeeding your dog is NOT a kindness, any more than slowly poisoning your best friend.  Be critical.  Can you feel your dog's ribs without poking him too hard?  If you can't, your dog is overweight.  He is short of breath, lacks stamina, has trouble getting up, and moves with effort that pounds his joints.  Some vets are too diplomatic to tell you your dog is fat.  They think it will offend you, and they're probably right most of the time.  The truth can hurt...but not as much as a bad joint that's had too much weight on it for too long.  Be honest with yourself.  If your dog needs to lose weight, help him do so by feeding him less and exercising him more.

He won't lose the weight in a week.  It will take him time to melt it off, just as it takes you time.  Barring any medical problems, your dog will lose weight by eating less and exercising more.  If your dog is eating a small amount of dog food and still not losing weight, perhaps he's finding food elsewhere.  Are others in the household sabotaging his diet?  Is he finding extra calories on  almost empty plates in the dishwasher rack?  Is he getting a whole dog cookie when a fourth of a dog cookie would work just as well?

Fortunately I know about Lizzie's potentially bad hip, so I can take measures now--like helping her lose weight--to keep her sound, healthy and happy for longer.  Even if she had good hips, I want her to be my agility partner for many more years.  If I let her get fat, it won't happen.  She may want the whole cookie...but it's my job to know what's best for her, and to see that she gets it.

Hey Mutts! Welcome to AKC!

It's high time.  The American Kennel Club has finally conceded to let mixed-breed and non-registerable dogs compete in companion events like agility, obedience and rally, beginning in April of next year.  If you and your dog have been feeling left out until now, here's the scoop:

Date of Article: October 01, 2009

– Program Benefits, Including Canine Competitions and Lifetime Recovery Service with Free ID Tag, Available to 34 Million Mixed-Breed Dogs in U.S. –
Starting today, mixed-breed dog owners can visit www.akccaninepartners.org and enroll their dog in the American Kennel Club® Canine Partners Program. Mixed-breed dogs and their owners will now be able to participate in canine competitions held by AKC-affiliated dog clubs nationwide and access many AKC programs and services including lifetime enrollment in AKC Companion Animal Recovery (AKC CAR).
For a $35 enrollment fee, owners will receive benefits worth more than $50 including a free AKC logo ID collar tag with the dog’s listing number and the AKC CAR pet recovery 800 number. Ensuring that your pet wears this tag increases the chances of finding your dog should he/she become lost. AKC CAR has reunited more than 360,000 animals with their owners since 1995.


Once enrolled, dogs will receive their AKC Canine Partners listing number plus:

• Lifetime enrollment in AKC CAR Pet Recovery Service
• AKC CAR collar tag with AKC Canine Partners Listing Number
• One-year subscription to AKC Family Dog magazine
• Frameable 8.5" x 11" AKC Canine Partners Certificate of Recognition
• AKC Canine Partners decal
• Eligibility to participate in mixed-breed classes at stand-alone AKC Agility, Obedience and Rally events beginning in April 2010.

Additional benefits including a free AKC Canine Good Citizen® certificate for dogs passing the CGC test, and various other offers from AKC affiliates and sponsors will be added to the program in the future. With more than 34 million mixed-breed dogs in the U.S. (according to the 2009-2010 APPA National Pet Owner Survey), AKC Canine Partners is designed to strengthen the human-canine bond by encouraging training, responsible dog ownership and pet owner education.


"While we have always been known as an advocate for purebred dogs, we have also always been concerned with the welfare of all dogs. Encouraging the public to do more with their dogs helps us achieve our mission when it comes to canine welfare and allows dogs and people to enjoy one another more, " said AKC President and CEO Dennis Sprung. "With the launch of AKC Canine Partners, mixed-breed dog owners will benefit from AKC resources and be able to discover the world of canine competition."

With mixed-breed classes beginning April 1, 2010, dog owners have time to kick start their competitive training regimen. Go to www.akc.org to the club search function and look-up agility and obedience clubs in your area where you can enroll in classes and begin learning about events so that both members of your team can be ready to hit the ring and rake in the ribbons come Spring!

AKC-affiliated clubs may begin applying for events now by visiting: http://www.akc.org/eventplans/index.cfm or contacting AKC directly at eventplans@akc.org.

To find an event near you starting April 1, 2010 visit: http://www.akc.org/events/search/

 For more information about the AKC Canine Partners program for mixed-breed dogs visit: www.akccaninepartners.org

Barksolver MIGHT work for you!

In response to the post a couple weeks ago about how to stop nuisance barking,  my good friend Karen (who is a top-notch dogmom!) informed me of a device called a Barksolver x40 that she swears has worked wonders for her dogs.   I heard the same testimonial from another person!  So I looked it up on Amazon.  You can buy one of these for around $55.

Product Description
The Intellipet Bark Solver X40 is the safe and humane way to cure outdoor problem barking. The unit activates automatically when barking begins and emits a harmless, corrective, ultrasonic tone to eliminate barking within 40 feet. When the barking stops, the correction stops and dogs quickly learn to stop barking! Bark Solver x40 can be used in yards and kennels where problem barking exists. Requires four "D" Batteries.

I also read the reviews--there were only two--and they were both a bit dismal.   Both stated that other neighborhood noises, including rain and wind, can set this thing off.  The other complaint was that the dogs don't like it but they either got desensitized to it or just left the area when it "went off."

That said, what didn't work for two people I don't know DID work for two people I DO know.  Y'know?  So...whatever.  It might be worth trying if you have exhausted all other behavior modification methods and are facing getting rid of your dog or having him surgically debarked.  Me, I still favor electronic no-bark collars for their simplicity.  But DON'T get the "citronella spray" type.  They don't work and don't last.

Dog's behavior ruins vacation

Dear Jan,

My four-year-old Giant Schnauzer is very well behaved at home.  My husband is gone a lot for his job, and it's just  Bo and me at home most of the time.  Bo spends his days alone in a large pen adjacent to the house.  When I get home, he's in the house with me and follows me everywhere.  The problem is I can't take him out in public.  He becomes a different dog!  He'll lunge at skateboarders and dogs, he becomes totally inattentive to me, and he's borderline unmanageable because of his size and strength.  I recently took him to Portland thinking how fun it would be to walk through the parks there with him, but it was a nightmare.  I ended up spending most of my time dog-sitting him in the hotel room!  Why is he like this?  Can it be fixed?

Evie

Dear Evie,
Here's what Bo needs to become better away from home:

•   Socialization with dogs
•   Socialization with the world
• . More exercise
•   Leadership

Socialization with other dogs:  Get him into a play group.  Doggy Daycare is ideal.  If you don't have one in your town, consider a shopping trip to a larger town where you can drop him off at a good daycare for a few hours of socializing.  The other dogs will teach him things you haven't been able to, about self control and respect for authority.   He'll get a lot of stuff out of his system and be utterly exhausted when you pick him up.

Socialization with the world:  It's easier to leave a dog at home when he's difficult to take out in public.  But to help him, you must push beyond your (and his) comfort level.  Get a Gentle Leader head halter (for control) and a short leash, and start going for short walks in town.  Five minutes in the grocery store parking lot.  Five minutes around the block by the library.  Five minutes around the high school track.  Gradually you'll be introducing him to more and more distractions and teaching him that he can handle them--that he MUST handle them--because you require it.

More exercise:  Yes, it's hard to exercise them when they're difficult to walk on a leash.  Do it anyway.  With the right tools (Gentle Leader, short leash) and the right mindset ("We're going to FIX this thing!!"),  your frequent short walks will become easier, more gratifying, and longer.  No dog can be well balanced without proper exercise.  The more the better.

Leadership:  Work on your leadership skills.  Be FIRM and resolute with your boundaries, rules and limitations.  No fudging!  Let your dog know you are a person with strong convictions.  He wants that in you.  Be clear and concise with commands.  Follow through.  Demand the same type of respect from him that you would from fellow workers or subordinates.